Jerusalem, Israel: 10 Days in the Middle East - January 2017

The Middle East. Just uttering the phrase causes some to lament on the conflict and instability that has tormented the region throughout history. Others think to the setting of religious stories they've held close throughout their lives. And yet, tens of millions of people call this turbulent area of the world home.

After years of sidestepping the region due to fear, we decided the time was right. With the goal of having a more historical and cultural experience rather than to embark on a religious pilgrimage, we set out to make the most of our short time.

Day 1: Arrival/ Tel Aviv, Israel
In planning our trip and not knowing what to expect, we elected to arrange for an airport transfer service offered through the hotel. Upon arrival into Tel Aviv's Ben Gurion international airport, we were met planeside by an airport employee who immediately whisked us off the tarmac and into a sedan. We were driven directly to the entrance of the border control area and escorted to the front of the line. Within moments of touchdown we were met by our hotel car. It was definitely easier than we anticipated without any heightened security delay. That afternoon we spent relaxing and getting acquainted with the area. 

Day 2-3: Petra and Wadi Rum, Jordan
After an early start to the day, we took a bus south to the Eliat crossing near the Red Sea. We were able to obtain a visa at the border and met a Jordanian guide on the other side. For the next two days we explored the lost city of Petra, camped in the desert under the stars and ran with the Bedouins along the dunes in Wadi Rum. Currently Jordan is one of the safest Arab nations in the Middle East. Not only was it exciting to experience the culture and see the country's most well-known treasures, but it was the perfect timing to escape Israel while the country was observing Shabbat.

Day 4: Tel Aviv, Israel
Our only full day in Tel Aviv, we began by walking south on the beach promenade towards Jaffa. Towards the city we saw incredibly-unique architecture and significant construction along the way. Even though we were wearing jackets, the beaches were filled with families sunbathing and crowds watching volleyball. At the Jaffa Market we grabbed a falafel and fruit juice and walked the stalls selling fruits and vegetables, home goods and souvenirs. We could have easily stayed longer in Tel Aviv with its host of international offerings and laid-back vibe.

Day 5: Jerusalem, Israel
A short drive from Tel Aviv, we reached Jerusalem in late morning and were anxious to explore inside the walls of the Old City. After entering through the New Gate and passing by the Tower of David, we wandered the city's quarters through markets and down winding cobblestone alleys. We spent time admiring the Western Wall and parted crowds to enter the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. After following the path of the Via Dolorosa, we took an elevator to the top of the Austrian hospice to enjoy a spectacular view of the ancient city.

Day 6: Masada and the Dead Sea, Israel
On our sixth day we decided to get out of the city and see the surrounding area. Two of the top tourist attractions in Israel are the hilltop fortress of Masada and the Dead Sea. We spent the morning walking the ruins and had lunch at a traditional Jewish kibbutz, or communal settlement. We walked off our meal in the desert oasis of Ein Gedi where according to biblical story King David hid from King Saul and wrote the majority of the Book of Psalms. After hiking through the waterfalls, we stopped off at a beach resort to spend a few hours floating in the Dead Sea and covering our faces in silky gray mud.

Day 7: Bethlehem, Palestine/ Jerusalem, Israel
With help from an Israeli friend, that morning we ventured into Palestinian territory. On the other side of the wall was the Church of the Nativity which is believed to be built over the birthplace of Jesus Christ. While in Bethlehem our Christian Palestinian guide shared with us the difficulties of being a Christian in a Muslim-led and majority country. In the afternoon we returned to Jerusalem to see some of the sights outside of the Old City including the Mount of Olives.

Day 8-10: Cyprus/ Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus
After a fast-paced week spent seeing as much as we could of Israel and the surrounding lands, it was time to relax. We hopped a short flight to the island of Cyprus in the Mediterranean. During our stay at a Limassol beach resort we were able to visit the birthplace and temple of the Greek Goddess Aphrodite, witness the locals celebrate Epiphany Day and even mustered the courage to venture into the area of the island occupied by the Turkish Army.

Our visit to the Middle East was unforgettable. In ten days I learned more about western religion than I had over the course of my life. During our many adventures, there were moments when we were fearful and times when we were humbled, but we came away from the experience with a greater appreciation for the region's rich history and culture, and a hope that somehow its people can find enduring peace.

Lefkosia, Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus: Crossing the Green Line - January 2017

After tossing a few coins to a man slumped in a plastic chair to watch our rental car, we set out to cross the de facto border into the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. It was a bit intimidating to march into a self-declared state occupied by 30,000 Turkish troops, but we elected to test our luck anyway.

The first step was to exit the Republic of Cyprus. We walked up to a small white building and handed over our passports. After being questioned about our purpose and length of stay, the officials waved us on without a stamp or any documentation.

Passing billboards displaying the faces of the young men killed in protests during 1996 and flyers cautioning us of the dangers of the Turkish occupation, we entered the United Nations buffer zone.

Also referred to as the "Green Line" dividing the island, the UN buffer zone is a narrow stretch of land which contains seven de facto border crossings. We chose to enter at the Ledra Palace crossing which is only accessible to the public by foot and not long ago was reserved for government and military officials. The crossing bears the name of the impressive multi-story building which was once one of the most luxurious hotels on the island, but is now the region's UN headquarters and a popular meeting site for peace negotiations.

Days earlier we had flown into the city of Larnaca, Cyprus. Having the desire to visit the TRNC but not knowing much more than that the island is plagued with what the world refers to as the "Cyprus Problem," we decided to do some research. We learned that although the island struggled throughout much of its storied past, the current-day issues began when Cyprus gained its independence from the United Kingdom in 1960. During that time, and still to this day, the island was home to two distinct cultural groups: the Greek Cypriots supported by Greece and a minority of Turkish Cypriots backed by the government of Turkey.

In 1963 the island and city of Nicosia, or Leftkosia in Turkish, was physically divided by a wall, barbed wire or fence along the Green Line. Tensions soared in 1974 after the Turkish army captured one third of the island in the north, and later in 1983 the Turkish-held area declared itself the independent state of the "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus."

Discussions around resolving the Cyprus Problem have been held frequently throughout the past thirty years without much progress. Most recently talks were organized in January of 2017 in Geneva, Switzerland to discuss the issue but it appears the parties remain at a stalemate due to several key issues. As of today only Turkey recognizes the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus as a nation; the United Nations and all other governments regard the Republic of Cyprus as having official governance over the entire island.

As we exited the UN buffer zone and walked into the TRNC side of the last divided capital in the world, we were struck by the change. The thriving, modern city "Nicosia" which we left moments earlier was a stark contrast to the dilapidated, scarcely-populated section of "Lefkosia."

On the other side of the tall cement wall, packs of men meandered aimlessly on broken sidewalks and past abandoned houses. Small stores were signed with Turkish lettering and kebab restaurants sat empty. Other than the official sign at the border, the only other acknowledgement that we were in the occupied area sat across from a closed pizza joint within a traffic rotary: a stone monument flanked with both the Turkish and TRNC flags.

After a brief stay we walked back to the crossing past the armed border guards; this time they couldn't be bothered to check our documents. Life varied considerably from one side of the wall to the other with the tension all around palpable.

Limassol, Cyprus: The Island of Aphrodite - January 2017

Located precariously in the Mediterranean Sea off the coast of Syria, the island of Cyprus probably isn't top of mind when considering your next holiday destination. The ongoing conflict there has resulted in the island being divided between the Greek-influenced Republic of Cyprus and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

Currently the Russians and Brits have a lock on the island as a warm-weather getaway, but in case you are curious, here's what we learned during our recent weekend adventure:

History. Civilization on the island has been traced back to the 10th millennium BC. Archeological remains can be found in various areas along with some of the oldest water wells in the world. Cyprus is referred to as the birthplace of the Greek Goddess of Love and Beauty, Aphrodite. While on the island it's possible to visit her birthplace on the coast (pictured above) as well as the ruins of her ancient temple (pictured below.) Additionally, the entire town of Paphos is a UNESCO World Heritage Site where you can view the world's best-preserved Roman mosaics.

Conflict. The divided island is home to the only capital in the world belonging to two nations; Nicosia is separated by the "Green Line," or UN buffer zone, with an armed checkpoint on either side of the border. We learned a good deal about what is referred to as the "Cyprus Problem" that has been going on since 1974 upon our visit to the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

Epiphany Day. During our visit, we witnessed the festivities around Epiphany Day, or Three Kings' Day, where Greek Orthodox Cypriots perform the Great Blessing of Waters. As part of this annual ritual, clergy and parishioners march to the nearest body of "living water" to perform the blessing. Following the ceremony, a Priest casts a golden cross into the waters. The volunteer who is first able to sieze the cross receives a special blessing for himself and family.

Cyprus is also known for its wine production and brags the oldest label in the world: "Commandaria" dating back more than 5,000 years. If you do choose to swing by the island nation for a visit, be sure to stay to the left when driving and try your best to spot the elusive local sheep, the Cyprus Muffon, which are a distinct breed found only on the island.